Although you might think so from the Scandinavian connection, Aquavit is not a Twin Cities original. It’s a sister establishment of a namesake restaurant in New York City. The Twin Cities were all agog when Aquavit came to town. The chef, Marcus Samuelson, was among the best known nationwide. I also suspect that some locals thought that the coming of Aquavit would put to rest the myth (?) that Scandinavian food is ineluctably boring.

In fact, the lunch menu, which changes weekly, appears short on standard Scandinavian fare. There is a smörgåsbord plate, gravlax, and Swedish meatballs. But there’s much else besides, including combinations and special offerings that are somewhat confusing. Menu specials this week were a soup and sandwich (butternut squash and barbecued pork on pumpernickel respectively), seared catfish, and macaroni and cheese (served with duck confit and cabbage). The specials come with a salad for $10, and can be included in three course lunch specials ($20) with a choice of an ambiguously specified soup or mixed green salad, the daily dessert, and a soft drink. The a la carte items included salads, a soup, sides, and entrées. The soup was an intriguing carrot-ginger with coconut dumpling, but only available by the bowl. Main entrées included a crispy salmon, the aforementioned meatballs, and rare-seared tuna and scallop. Three side dishes that are decidedly not standard fare in the typical Danish, Swedish, or Norwegian household completed the savory items: tempura fries with horseradish-lime aioli, spicy green papaya salad with kimchee and mango, and root vegetable chips with wasabi sour cream. A discreet note on the menu also offers a chef’s tasting menu, by reservation only.

The Scandinavian influence is in evidence in the libations, and in particular in the aquavit selection. Half a dozen imports from Denmark and Sweden are supplemented with ten restaurant-made varieties, all infused with one or more fruits, herbs, and spices. A flight of three is a reasonable $9. You can see aquavit in the making in the dining room; every table has a large jar, serving to both educate and decorate.

Half a dozen each of red and white wines are available by the glass, and the beer selections include Carlsberg, Pilsner Urquell, and Paulaner Hefewiessen. If you’re in the mood for a true Scandinavian experience, the gravlax and smörgåsbord can be ordered with an aquavit and Carlsberg beer supplement for an additional $4.

B and I were accompanied by a friend of his, a recent transplant from the East Coast who, I think, has been pleasantly surprised by the restaurant scene in the Twin Cities. We all ended up getting a different one of the main entrées: she had the crispy salmon, B the Swedish meatballs, and I the tuna and scallops. They were all very good (we cross-sampled, of course). Perhaps B’s meatballs were a trifle rubbery but they were flavorful. The dominant element of my dish came on a skewer: alternating tuna slices and sea scallops. The former were outstanding. Each slice was a rectangle of perfect rare, blood red tuna, not a hint of stringiness marring its smooth look and texture, with an improbably distinct medium-done edge. The dish came with taro root confit, shiitake mushrooms, greens that might have been bok choy, and sea urchin froth. The mushrooms were great too, as were the greens. The taro root came as a deep-fried oblong that had a pleasant nutty taste but could have been tenderer. Also outstanding was the sea urchin froth; I would have eaten it with a spoon if one had been included in the place setting.

We each also got a dessert. On the waitperson’s recommendation I went with the "Arctic Circle," consisting of a clabbered (a synonym for the less euphonious "curdled") cream parfait, hidden within which was a dollop of a lemon curd, and atop which rested a long, thin, crescent-shaped biscuit and an egg-shaped scoop of blueberry sorbet. Like the other desserts, this one was a work of art—easier on the eye than on the palate.

As you might expect, Aquavit’s interior is light and airy, with lots of blond wood and glass. It’s mostly rectilinear surfaces, except for a long curved bar with a matching overhang. The layout includes several dining rooms and/or areas. The main space has a really cool artichoke-shaped light fixture.

Aquavit isn’t cheap—I suspect this was our priciest lunch to date—and in addition there is downtown parking to contend with. One can get by with a reasonable tab by opting for one of the specials, but the choice is quite limited then. On the other hand, I can see taking an afternoon off and enjoying a long, indulgent, leisurely lunch at Aquavit, reflecting on how multicultural influences have enlivened cuisines everywhere.

A

Aquavit is located in the IDS center making it an ideal spot for people working in downtown. It’s easily accessible via the skyway and seems to be the place for a "power lunch". I have some fondness for this area having worked here over the years and currently miss its centrality. The IDS center has had its share of innovative businesses – I still remember, with some nostalgia, the unmanned-robotic CD dispensing kiosk on the ground floor that was way ahead of its time. And so it might be with Aquavit, a restaurant that’s putting Scandinavian fusion food on our culinary map, however, the restaurant goers appear to be out numbering the CD buyers of yore.

The restaurant has an open floor plan with blonde, wooden floors. There is a lounge area with a bar and comfortable armchairs. The tables, if not exactly cheek-by-jowl, are set fairly close to each other to where you can easily see (and hear!) what the other diners are enjoying. Be sure to look at the walls behind which you’ll see Aquavit’s wine storage. The mood is set by a soundtrack that features performers like Frank Sinatra and Peggy Lee which can occasionally and unfortunately be drowned out by the loud Christmas related merriments from the IDS center.

Aquavit boasts a celebrity executive chef: Marcus Samuelsson, a product of Ethiopia and Sweden, whose excellence is reflected in the wonderfully eclectic (in a Scandinavian sort of way) menu. Fish is the thing here from the wonderful smorgasbord plate to the seared catfish. The menu has a couple of set price dining options: the $10.00 lunch special (a great deal) that offers a choice of soup & sandwich, which on this day was a butternut squash soup and barbeque pork sandwich on pumpernickel bread or the seared catfish (soy glazed root vegetables and mustard) or macaroni & cheese (duck confit with cabbage); the $20.00 three course lunch which includes the daily soup or mixed green salad followed by a choice of a lunch entrée (from the $10.00 lunch special) rounded off with a choice of dessert. The a la carte menu has standout items like the crispy salmon (slow braised pork belly, celery – pear puree, roasted garlic glaze), rare seared tuna & scallop (taro root confit, shiitake mushrooms & sea urchin froth).

For The Lunch this week we were joined by a third person, a friend of mine recently moved here from the East coast, whose guest review appears alongside ours. I started with an Aquavit, a Swedish liquor made up by fermenting vodka with a variety of flavor giving fruits, roots and vegetables (jars of this sit fermenting on each table). This drink is highly recommended, however for lunch one should suffice; for the more adventuresome it’s offered in a flight of three. I had the horseradish flavored one and it was crisply delicious! I chose the Swedish meatballs (nay, stare not so) which came in an exquisite sauce and were easily the best meatballs, Swedish or otherwise, that I have ever had. A had the tuna/scallop dish, which was exceptional, the tuna almost raw, seared at the edges. My friend tried the crispy salmon and was equally delighted. Each dish was beautifully presented and the service was very good. We finished our meals with desserts that were beautiful to behold but came up a bit short on the eating. I had a milk chocolate terra cotta that was a disappointment but then perhaps I had been spoiled by my entrée!

The bill for three came to $118.00 but keep in mind this included wine, coffee and dessert. Don’t let the price tag keep you away; a wonderful meal can be had for $10.00 to which you can add a Carlsberg beer and an Aquavit supplement for $4.00. I also hear that the Chef’s Tasting Menu is divine but for this you need to call in advance. If you thought Scandinavian food consisted of aged, salted fish think again and try the fabulous food on offer at the Aquavit.

B